Preparing Fish: Not Overcooked or Over-Sauced

Lemon Steamed Salmon and Pan-Fried Trout Show Simple is Best

© Larry Ervin

Oct 12, 2008

Fish cooks quickly. Don't walk off. Even a few seconds of excess cooking can make the difference between perfectly cooked fish and cardboard. The flavors of fish are usually mild, so a light touch in saucing (if any) is all that's needed to let the taste shine through.

Here are two cooking methods that the home chef can apply to most fish. The fish that your local fishmonger carries may vary widely, but salmon and trout are two varieties that are available nearly everywhere.

Salmon in a Packet with Lemon and Herbs

Saumon en Papillote

Yield: 4-6 servings

Steaming salmon in a foil packet retains all the fillet's moisture. Of the two methods demonstrated in this article, this one is the more forgiving. Lemon and a few herbs add flavor without overpowering the salmon, one of the more full-flavored kind of fish.

Ingredients:

• 1½ pound salmon fillet
• canola oil for coating the foil
• salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 6 sprig fresh dill, one of them chopped
• 5 slices lemon
• 2 scallions, chopped

Method:

1. Preheat oven or barbecue to 450° F. (230 degrees C.)
2. Coat one side of two pieces of foil (large enough to amply cover the fillet). Place one sheet, oiled side up, on a baking sheet or dish large enough to accommodate the fillet.
3. Lay the fillet on the foil. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, garlic and the chopped dill.
4. Arrange the lemon slices along the top of the fillet and place a sprig of dill on each. Sprinkle the chopped scallions over all.
5. Cover the salmon with the second sheet of foil and crimp the two edges together to form a tight seal.
6. Bake until the salmon flakes easily, 20-25 minutes.

Variation: You could alternatively steam individual servings (about 6 ounces each), each in its own parchment pouch. That way, your guests can open their pouches and breathe the heavenly aroma. Reduce the cooking time to 15-20 minutes.

Pan-Fried Trout with Almonds (or not)

Truites aux Amandes

Yield: 2 servings

Trout are abundant in streams throughout France and often appear on regional menus. Pan-fried trout is excellent served “fisherman style.” without any sauce, but this simple almond-wine sauce elevates it to an elegant dish suitable for guests.

As with most recipes calling for wine, use a wine good enough that you might serve with the dish. Avoid so-called “cooking wines” (or “cooking” Sherries). These are inferior wines to which salt has been added to keep the servants from drinking it!

The recipe only serves two, but doubles easily. You can either use two pans or fry the trout in batches.

Ingredients:

• 2 trout (about 12 ounces each), cleaned
• 1/3 cup flour
• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 2 Tbsp butter

Optional Almond Sauce:

• 2 more Tbsp butter
• ¼ cup slivered or slice almonds (see note)
• 2 Tbsp dry white wine

Method:

1. Rinse the trout and pat dry. Put the flour, salt and pepper in a bag. One at a time, put each trout into the bag and shake until well coated with the seasoned flour. Shake off the excess flour.
2. Warm plates in your oven at 275° F.
3. In a large frying pan over medium heat, melt 2 Tbsp of butter until foamy. Add the trout and cook until golden brown and the flesh next to the bone is opaque, 6-7 minutes on each side. If you are making the pan sauce, transfer the fish to a warmed plate and cover loosely with foil.
4. To make the pan sauce, add the remaining butter to the pan and add the almonds. Cook just until the nuts begin to brown. Add the wine and cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce thickens.
5. Spoon the sauce over the fish and serve immediately.

Note: To make Truites Normande, substitute chopped hazelnuts for the almonds. A Norman chef might also use cider or Calvados instead of wine in the sauce.

Check this out for more great recipes for fish and seafood, including:

• Mussels Steamed in Wine & Herbs
• Mussels with Garlic-Anchovy Sauce
• Scallops in Pernod-Tarragon Cream
• Seafood Eggs Benedict with Shrimp and Nova Scotia Lox
• Cioppino to Die For
• Tuna Salade Niçoise with Asparagus
• Grilled Halibut with Fresh Herbed-Tomato Relish
• Sweet Potato Hash w- Fennel Salmon
• Pasta with Salmon and Gorgonzola
• Salmon Souffle
• Salmon in a Packet with Herbs
• Pan-Fried Trout with Almonds

Salmon Fillet

Freshly Caught Trout

Lemons

Almonds, in Shell and Out

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